Zyo Kruk Klik and Scared Lip FA

I met up with Dave Warburton at Hawkcliffe with the view of trying Visions of Tan E7 6c.  This was put up last year, and has still only seen 2 ascents.  Both these were by climbers that are far from shabby and strong on the boulders.  I had had thoughts of attempting the flash, but after seeing how hard the move looked as Dave tried on a rope, it seemed sensible to go and see if it was for me.  Nice, reletively easy climbing led to a stopper crux move.  I could not see a way I could do it today, so quickly ditched the idea.  It's a shame as the top section is fine.  If I get bigger guns with the bouldering I'm doing, maybe.

Dave was happy to move on, and we turned our attention to Zyo Kruk Klik E5 6b**.  Dave went first and found some wet and dirty holds, but did well to make a good effort to get through the crux.  After falling, he cleaned and brushed what he could reach, and almost made the crux rockover.  As the climbing was very easy to the crux, and now clean, I took advantage of Dave's gear.  I was soon at the crux and tried to mimic Dave's attempt, but this was not the way for me and off I came.  A quick look for myself, and I saw the way.  I jumped back on just before the end of the easy climbing ( it made no sense to climb 3m of very easy ground again) and made it through the crux.  A sequence of very thin and balancy foot swaps followed, before a committing move up the slabby arete to finish.  Not a classic route, but some very good climbing once you got past the grotty easy ground at the bottom.

Unpsyched for anything else at Hawk, and time against me.  I opted to head home and stop at the Hidden Boulder again for a final link up that I thought would be good.  It links the best bits of most of the problems to give a lengthy V7 called Scared Lip.

SPA Training

Over the weekend I have been running a SPA Training with John Proctor in the Peak.  We covered the personal climbing aspects of the award on Saturday at Stanage.  All the candidates took good advantage of the good weather to send some nice routes, as well as take in some of the new element we covered.

Today we visited Burbage North to look at the group section the the training.  This is a great place to rig top and bottom ropes, and also look at releasable abseils.  Once we had covered the necessary at the crag, we headed to the Foundry to look at the final parts of the training.

A good weekend,

Cold Stanage

Today I was out at a cold Stanage with Ali who is working on his leading to prepare for his SPA assessment.  Ali started us off leading Anatomy VDiff, and putting in a good lead to climb Black Hawk Hell Crack, severe.  He then led Leaning Crack Indirect VDiff, before Hollybush Crack VDiff and the cold but him off leading.  I then led Hollymuff Crack, before stepping it up to finish with Central Trinity VS 4c*** and Zigzag Flake Crack VS 4b**.  A good day despite the cold, wind and occasional rain shower.

Spamface FA

After a visit to a wet Mythom Steep Quarry to look at The Cat Test, which looks a solid E6 to flash, I went for Plan B.  This was a revisit to the Hidden Boulder at Heptonstall to do Paul's problem Scar Chips V7. After a good brush the damp was gone and it was time to get stuck in.  I had tried this at the end of my last visit, but could not unlock the key to the big reach.  Armed with Paul's beta it was still a massive move, but after a few goes, success!

Breaking out of the roof on the FA Spamface

Aesome cross through

Getting established on the sloppers

Cheeky use on the heel to improve the sloppers

Working hard to finish up Pramface

We had talked about another problem traversing the sloping roof lip to finish up Pramface, so I got stuck into this.  This turned out to have some awesome moves to link from the sit start of Scarface, across the lip and up Pramface to give Spamface V6.  It made sense to add the same extention of Scarface to this problem as well to give Spamface Extention V6/font 7a.  The only thing left as to extend Scar Chips.  I did the by starting up Pramface to the lip of the roof, traversing that right to gain the chips and finishing up Scar Chips.  This gave Scar Chips Extention V7/8 font 7a+/b.  I started to do them all again to get some pics, but the rain came after the first one.

Nevermind as a good few hours were had.

Elis Birgham Edelrid Training

I spent the past 2 days down in Wales working with retail staff from Elis Brigham training on certain Edelrid products that they sell.  There were also folks from DMM, 5:10 and The North Face.  The aim of the 2 days is get the staff using and comparing kit to see how they are made and relate to specific customers.

Enjoying a couple of nice 6a's at Catle Inn Quarry

Yesterday was spent climbing at Holyhead Mountain and today at Castle Inn Quarry.  The different venues meant that everyone got to try the products on different styles of climbing, helping them gain a good idea of there uses and working.

Zippy's Traverse

Yesterday we had a family and friends trip to Stanage for a spot of bouldering.  After some extreme pram action, we found ourselves in the plantation, and despite it being a little warm, the friction was pretty good.

Zippy's Traverse

Warming up saw the Bullworker font 6b and the Bull Flakes sit start V5 get flashed, and all the problems on the Crozzle block get sent as well.  I had my eyes on Zippy's Traverse V8, which I had been on before at the end of a day last year. This time I had warmed up for it specifically, and was hopeful.  Things looked promising when I fell off having done the crux getting over excited first try.  This however became frustrating when I could not get that far again.  Eventually, I was in the crux with all the holds feeling amazing and suddenly latching the jug.  A romp up the flake to glory and happy days.  I wrapped my session up with quick run across the excellent Green Traverse V6.

Getting set to start the crux

Penny has not been on rock much since having Isabel 4 1/2 months ago, but still made short work of a few problems up to V2.

Penny cruising Slot stand up

Penny styling on the Business Boulder

Em and Rose enjoying a nice day out

A great day to be chilling around the boulders,

Hadrian's Wall Highlights

I have been earning a living this weekend working for Maximum Adventure walking along Hadrian's Wall.  The middle section of the wall has some impressive sections of wall in tacked and remains of Mile Castles and Forts too.  The group of 11 led by myself and Dave did very well across the 25 mile section raising in excess of £5000 for the Sue Ryder charity, and we even managed to stay dry.