Monday, 14 May 2012

Zyo Kruk Klik and Scared Lip FA

I met up with Dave Warburton at Hawkcliffe with the view of trying Visions of Tan E7 6c.  This was put up last year, and has still only seen 2 ascents.  Both these were by climbers that are far from shabby and strong on the boulders.  I had had thoughts of attempting the flash, but after seeing how hard the move looked as Dave tried on a rope, it seemed sensible to go and see if it was for me.  Nice, reletively easy climbing led to a stopper crux move.  I could not see a way I could do it today, so quickly ditched the idea.  It's a shame as the top section is fine.  If I get bigger guns with the bouldering I'm doing, maybe.

Dave was happy to move on, and we turned our attention to Zyo Kruk Klik E5 6b**.  Dave went first and found some wet and dirty holds, but did well to make a good effort to get through the crux.  After falling, he cleaned and brushed what he could reach, and almost made the crux rockover.  As the climbing was very easy to the crux, and now clean, I took advantage of Dave's gear.  I was soon at the crux and tried to mimic Dave's attempt, but this was not the way for me and off I came.  A quick look for myself, and I saw the way.  I jumped back on just before the end of the easy climbing ( it made no sense to climb 3m of very easy ground again) and made it through the crux.  A sequence of very thin and balancy foot swaps followed, before a committing move up the slabby arete to finish.  Not a classic route, but some very good climbing once you got past the grotty easy ground at the bottom.

Unpsyched for anything else at Hawk, and time against me.  I opted to head home and stop at the Hidden Boulder again for a final link up that I thought would be good.  It links the best bits of most of the problems to give a lengthy V7 called Scared Lip.

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