Tuesday, 22 May 2012

Trollers Gill

Rose showing off some more Extreme pram action
I went back to Trollers today for the first time this year, with grand plans of things to try.  After warming up on the usual loose horror show, I found myself trying to onsight The White Zone 7b/+.  After cruising to the crux through the roof, I dropped the route there.  After a couple goes to work it out, the one move wonder was done and easy ground led to the chain.  It is a shame that it all comes down to one hard move, as the rest of the route flowed quite well.

Above & below: Trying hard to on sight The White Zone

Feeling like I have done quite a bit of bouldering, I thought I would have a look at Moddy Dhoo 8a+.  It seemed crimp and sustained, which would have suited me, but sadly not.  The moves were all pretty powerful on small sidepulls and presses, definitely not my bag.  I dogged my way up this, then turned my attention to Smouldering Globules of Lust 7b+.  Looking up at the route there appeared to be a couple of scarred sections, one particularly large.  Not sure if these were new, I set off keen to onsight this.  I quite quickly got shut down and could not find away between the second and third bolt (where the 2 scars are?).  After I pulled past that bit, I cruised to the top, with no trouble through the roof.  A bit gutted, but would like to know if it is me, or has something changed on the route.

I salvaged something though with swift ascent of Spent Youth 7b/+, and then bashed up a 7a or 2 to finish off.


Dave Warburton said...

I really enjoyed the crimp crux on White Zone, but agree it's a shame its so 'short and sharp'. Would have been ace to have a tad more sustained at crux standard!

Adam Hughes said...

I am keen for Kilnsey now after an afternoon there on thursday. let me know if you fancy it.