My God Rides a Skateboard

Starting up the steep arete of My God Rides a Skateboard

I went to have a look at Honley Wood Quarry today, hoping to climb the main central crack line.  Unfortunately, it was still wet and seeping.  It does look quite a good line, so I will be back to do it.  I had to settle for the left arete of the steep wall instead.  After some determined brushing, this gave me a pleasant warm up with a solo flash of Triple Bad Acid E2 5c*, and then an a better solo flash of My God Rides a Skateboard E4 5c**.

Enjoying the big holds

Positive edges through the crux

I then tried to flash Millions of Dead Christians E4 6c**, but fell of the crux.  I ten tried to shunt it, but still could not do the one crux move.  This was gutting as the climbing above was ok, and I cruised that first go.  Maybe when it cools down the poor sloppy crimps might be easier to move off.

A slight bit of camera tilt I'm afraid, but surprisingly, not as much as you would think!

Woodwell

Moving across the roof of Angel Deelite

I had my first visit to Woodwell today, but only had a couple of hours.  As a result I went to Cave Buttress and tried send as many good problems as I could in the time I had.  After doing a couple of easy problems to warm up, I got stuck into Angel Deelite V6/7a and the Left Hand V7/7a+.  Both were cool problems.  I then did Superstar DJ Tin Pot Todd V7/7a+, another good problem with one hard move to start and another to finish.  Running out of time, I wrapped up my session doing Fat Boy V4/6c. 

Setting up to start the crux

Painful finger lock on Superstart DJ

This still of climbing is not my thing, being steep and powerful.  Therefore, I will be back, as it will be a great place to work my weaknesses.

Trollers Gill

Rose showing off some more Extreme pram action

I went back to Trollers today for the first time this year, with grand plans of things to try.  After warming up on the usual loose horror show, I found myself trying to onsight The White Zone 7b/+.  After cruising to the crux through the roof, I dropped the route there.  After a couple goes to work it out, the one move wonder was done and easy ground led to the chain.  It is a shame that it all comes down to one hard move, as the rest of the route flowed quite well.

Above & below: Trying hard to on sight The White Zone

Feeling like I have done quite a bit of bouldering, I thought I would have a look at Moddy Dhoo 8a+.  It seemed crimp and sustained, which would have suited me, but sadly not.  The moves were all pretty powerful on small sidepulls and presses, definitely not my bag.  I dogged my way up this, then turned my attention to Smouldering Globules of Lust 7b+.  Looking up at the route there appeared to be a couple of scarred sections, one particularly large.  Not sure if these were new, I set off keen to onsight this.  I quite quickly got shut down and could not find away between the second and third bolt (where the 2 scars are?).  After I pulled past that bit, I cruised to the top, with no trouble through the roof.  A bit gutted, but would like to know if it is me, or has something changed on the route.

I salvaged something though with swift ascent of Spent Youth 7b/+, and then bashed up a 7a or 2 to finish off.

CWA Training

Over the weekend I was running a CWA Training course.  The first day was at The Leeds Wall, where we covered all aspects of personal climbing, as well as introducing the break down of some movement skills.  Sunday took us to Harrogate Climbing Centre to cover the group aspects of the award.  We also covered the Abseil module as well.

It was a large course, which meant that there were lots of ideas to share.  Everyone seemed to get a lot out of the week, and were keen to start putting their new skills into practice.

If you are interested in attending a CWA course, please get in touch.

The Cat Test

Despite the weather forecast, Matt and I got out climbing again today.  I was keen to stop off at Mythom Steep Quarry to try and flash The Cat Test E6 6b**.  This is a route I had no knowledge until Dave Warburton cleaned and climbed it a few weeks ago.  I have been trying to get up to do it, but weather or lack of belayer has prevented it.  Matt was kind enough to hold my ropes today on our way to the Bridestones.

Entering the crux of The Cat Test

Through the hard climbing and at the gear

After a quick brush, I was keen to get stuck in, so went for it.  The lower arete has some excellent moves, before you clip a peg then enter into the crux.  This involves some steep moves into the zigzag crack and to exit it to the break.  After arranging some cams, nice moves take you to a ledge and scrappy finish.  Pretty to psyched to flash this, it was of to the Bridies.

This was another venue Matt had never been to, so we ticked around 30 of the classic easy problems from the Brother Sister area to the Big Bay.  My highlight was a retro flash of the high rounded arete of Knight's Honour V5.

Matt enjoying some Bridies classics

Good moves on a classic V4

Matt getting involved with a good arete in the Big Bay

Eppy Classics with Friends

Matt has come down from Fort William to work in the Lakes, so pop over to see us whilst he has a couple of days off.  Despite the weather, we went to Heptonstall to get some fresh air with Em and Rose, taking the climbing kit just in case.  To our delight, the crag was almost bone dry.  Matt had never been down this way before, so we bagged a couple of classics, before tea and medals in Hebden.

Matt starting up the classic Fairy Steps

Getting stuck into Main Line

High on Man Line

Family Day at Wimberry

It was family day today, so we made a trip out to Wimberry to enjoy the sunshine, extreme pramming and some bouldering. It was a little warm on the sunny faces, but I still managed to get about 20 problems done ranging from font 3-7b. I have never been to Wimberry before, so was quite happy to start at the lowest boulder and try and tick all the problems (with the exception of the nails ones) before moving on.

The problems on the Sugar Loaf were all quite nice, with Chips Sit Start font 7a and Local Hero font 6b+ being 2 of the best. Next up was the Sloping Top Boulder. It was a little too warm to finish Slap Happy font 6c/+, but Fat Slapper Sit start font 7a made up for it. We finished our day on the Tank Boulder. There were some nice problems on here to. Elephant's Slab font 6c and the Sit Start Font 7b being very good, Think Tank font 6b+ was no disappointment either.

Enjoying the onsight of Local Hero

Pulling hard on the heel to send Chips Sitstart

Struggling with the warmth on Slap Happy

Above & Below: cruising the classic Think Tank

Trying to find a way from sitting into the standing start of Elephant's Slab

Rose unimpressed with Daddy's efforts!