Tuesday, 21 September 2010

Stanage Unpopular End

Above: Terrazza Crack

Dan, Tony and I went doown to Stanage today, wanting to avoid the crowds we went to High Neb/Marble Wall areas. I had not been to this end before, so took advantage of the fact we walked past High Neb Buttress and made a cheeky solo ascent as the others carried on. I caught them up on Right Hand Tower HVS 5a***, which is pretty good value. I then Led Slap 'n' Spittle E3/4 6a* (depends on the guidebook). This is a pretty good route with some interesting climbing up the arete. I would say that it is more like E3 5c, but not soft at that grade.

Above & Below: Me on Slap 'n' Spittle

Above: Dan attempting Slap 'n' Spittle

Above & Below: Dan on Orang-outang

Tony then led Terrazza Crack HVS 5a*** which is very stiff at the grade I thought. Dan then battled his way up Orang-outang E2 5c***, another stiff tick. I had a go on Harvest, but could not get established in the crack over the roof so retreated to save the onsight for future visits. We then went to the Blurter HVS 5b*** which Tony made short work of. I then led Wolf Solent E4 5c**. I did the direct start as well, which is no harder than the normal start. The crux however was very hard for 5c I felt. The route was very dirty and I was cleaning a lot as I went, but the climbing would still have been hard for the grade. Very bold and quite serious. We rapped the day up with a team ascent of Quietus E2 5c*** which is truely outstanding.

Below: Me getting involved with Wolf Solent

Below: Dan on Quietus

With the general concensus that the grade on the routes we did felt quite stiff, it's no wonder this is the unpopular end.

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