Friday, 3 September 2010

Millstone Bonanza

Dan, John and I went to Millstone today, which was the first time for me. As always I had a few things I wanted to have a look at. Dan led us up the super classic North West Road HVS 5a as a warm up' which is an outstanding route. I then took on the challenge of onsighting Snivling Shits E5 6a. This is pretty bold, with the only runner after the crux and 12m up. I was climbing well and picking my way up the last hard move (8m up) when the edge on my shoe desided it was worn out and parted company with everything. As this was my only point of contact, Groung Ahoy!!! Luckily Dan was on it with the matt and softened the fall. I brushed myself off, fix my shoe and did the route without incident, Awesome!

Above: Snivling Shits

John then made short work of Dexterity HVS/E1 5b (depends on the guide). Perfect jams and a stiff upper section.

Below: John on Dexterity

It was Dan's lead, but the sun had started to come around into the quarry. I leapt into action and stole infront of Dan (he said it was ok) and Soloed Edge Lane E5 5c. The climbing was out of this world, never hard, but super serious it you dropped it high up. Happy with my day, Dan racked up for Great West Road. He did really well on the quite physical and pumpy E2 5b first pitch. The top pitch is another bold arete that goes at E3 5b. I was on my game today, so led that pitch, which is very serious in places.
Below: Getting involved with Edge Lane

To wrap the day off I made a quick send of Technical Master which went 3rd go. A truely amazing day and I can't wait to come back and try some cracks.

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