Monday, 30 August 2010

Desperate Dan

Above & below: engaged in the crux

I met up with John at Ilkley today for a bit of trad action. as always there were a few things I had my eye on. To warm up John led Walewska, and I then led Tufted Crack which had some great climbing on it for a short route. We both wanted to get on Wellington Crack, but someone was on it. So John humoured me, and we went to have a look at Desperate Dan. After throwing a rope down, it took a few shots to work out the crux sequence. I was getting too focused on the arete and barn dooring off, but once I found the right way it was a whole lot easier. After a couple of goes doing it clean and a quick brush, it was on. I had a good rest whilst John worked Welli Crack, and got focused. I only had 1 mat, but some kind boulders gave me a couple more. Even with these it would still be a bad fall, with the added potential to hit your head it you roll back as you landed. The ascent went really well, only 1 tense moment when I almost over shot the hold on the last tricky move. Amazing to have done my second E7.

Above: Happy to reach the jug at the end of the crux
Below: Finishing the big 5c moves to the top

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