Saturday, 5 February 2011

Busy Day on Dorsal

Above: James on the Direct Start

After the mass snow dump and rapid thaw yesterday conditions have calmed down a bit. I went into Stob Corie Nan Lochain with Eliot and James today with the aim of covering how to move together safely. This skill is often done badly, so I was keen to make sure they left with good practise firmly in mind. We were the first team in the corie so kitted up and walked up to the route. James also wanted to try something a little harder than he would normally lead, so we went up the direct start. He led this well as I climbed close by and offered so coaching. Once on the route proper, the whole world was heading for us. Teams and ropes everywhere, if we got this right we could be away. We arranged the rope so we were ready to move together and off we went. As Eliot got into the swing of it, and I cleaned the gear slots out ahead, we steamed past everyone to the fin. A quick change and re-rack and James led across the fin. A good day.

Above: Eliot approaching the Dorsal

Above: James on the Dorsal

Matt and dave climbed Compression Crack, with good ice on the bottom pitch but not the best on the crux corner. There are loads of ice routes in good condition.

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