Sunday, 6 February 2011

Compression Crack

Above: Finishing the steep section

Today James, Eliot and I headed up to the Ben. the aim today was to climb something a bit steeper, Look at the use of a guide plate/Reverso, Abseil/retreat and what ever else I could throw in there without overloading them. As the bottom sections of Compression crack are blue and fat at the moment, it made sense to head there rather than walk to the top of the mountain. This route was perfect to teach on. Big belay stances and awesome ice which meant we could look at V threads/Abolokov's as well. As we climbed we took the time at the stances to talk about stance management and how using a guide plate in these situations can be useful. The climbing itself was the right level of challenge for both of them, not too hard that they struggled too much, but hard enough that they would not want to have led it. We retreated after the second pitch off the in-situ V threads. A quick bite and we walked around to the Gulch. Here we looked at assessing the ice and placing screws, building belays ans managing stances. this time they got the chance to do all the things we had covered whilst climbing the route.
Below: James setting off on the Ab back down

Above: Eliot making the Ab down the first crux pitch of Compression Crack

Above: Nicely equalised Abolokov

A great weekend and good weather. It was snowing lightly were we where today, but raining at the hut on the way out. Some impressive avalanche debris around, espesially at the bottom of No.5 Gully.

Hopefully Eliot will email me some pics. The belays were in the wrong place today.

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