Tuesday, 14 June 2011

Wilton 2

Above: Through the crux move of The Swine E3 6a***

After a steep day at the Roost yesterday, I was not sure how well I would do today. However, when Elliot suggested the Main Wall at Wilton 2 I was psyched to try and tick all the 2 and 3 star routes I one visit. This would be 6 routes at E2 and above, so I stiff challenge. It was very warm in there today which instantly stop and attempt on the two hardest routes. Still four to go at though.

Elliot nipped back home to grab a couple of bouldering mats, so I took the time to ab and clean a very dirty Iron Orchid which some how ended up first on the list. After removing grass from holds in the crux, Elliot was back and it was game on. The heat made the bold lower arete feel greasy and quite tricky. I had also not brushed the arete as it looked ok, I should have. Thankfully I made it to the jugs and pegs at 8m without taking the plunge. The crux through the groove was one pretty hard move, that felt ok when I went for it (thank god I had cleaned the hold). Easy climbing to finish and one in the bag. Elliot was up next, but unfortunately took a couple of falls of the crux and got some good rope burns for his efforts.

Despite it being very hot now, I had a go on The Swine E3 6a***, but got shut down by a sweaty sloppy side pull. I spat my dummy out, but stopped sulking and led Wilton Wall E3 6a*** instead. This has some great climbing on it, but is over graded. Even in the heat it felt benchmark E2 5c. Elliot then led Falling Crack E2 5b** (stiff and harder than Wilton Wall). This had some excellent moves on thin jams and was steeper than it first appeared.

Below: Elliot on Falling Crack

It had cooled down a bit no the sun had moved off the wall so I got back on The Swine. the side pull was still sweaty, but I managed to use a thinner, sharper side pull instead. After that it eases off to the top. A good way to end the day, as my feet didn't want to go back in my shoes again.

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