Thursday, 2 June 2011

The Kilnsey Burn

Above: Dan on Hardy Annual

As the temperature was back up, it was time to take the first trip of the season to Kilnsey. I met Dan, Pete and Tony there, hoping it would not be the usual first visit epic.

I have been making an effort to climb more steep things this year and was hoping for a quick tick of something a bit tricky. I started off putting the clips in Metal Guru 7c**, but found it had some hard moves on pockets which don't agree with my finger's. I bailed off this and turned my attention to Comedy 7c***, thinking it might be good to work my weaknesses. After a couple of goes on this, it was clear that I didn't have the guns, the Kilnsey shutdown had struck again.

Dan was making good progress on Hardy Annual 7b** and Pete had just redpointed it, so I thought I would give that a lash. With all Dan and Pete's beta I was psyched to flash the route and flip the of Kilnsey back in my favor. Pete and Tony climbed Dodger Direct E3 5c**, whilst Dan was working hard on his redpoint. He came frustratingly close, one hold away before sagging onto the rope. Unfortunately, the hard start had taken it's toll, but I'm sure it will go next time.

I was getting pretty tired, but thought it was about time I did The Directissima 6c***. A great route, but really suffering from over use as a warm up. Tony had a few goes on this as well, whist Pete also got shutdown on Comedy. I wrapped my day up climbing Face Value E5/7a+** and then Directissima again it can't get that more polished).

It's good to get shutdown and know what to work on, but nice to succeed every now and then at Kilnsey.

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