Monday, 30 May 2011

Coalition Crack

I was back at the Roost today with Elliot. Despite the rain over the last few days, the crag had held up well. The top of the crag is wet, but all the routes are climbable.
I warmed up leading Chip and Pin E5 6a*** which I now have wired, and climbed it a couple of times to get really warm. I was hoping to onsight Coalition Crack E5 6a*** today, so a good warm up was important. Elliot was trying the Indirect Start to Chip and Pin E5 6a***, so warmed up top roping the route by both starts.

Coalition Crack is pretty steep sustained with good protection that is physical to place. This venue is not my style of climbing, hence putting the time in to do these routes and try and improve. The onsight went quite well until near the end of the hard climbing where I got really spooked by a hollow block. Over gripping and then a few dirty damp holds and I dropped the route moving to the jugs that would have taken me to the off width, and easy ground. Gutted!! Looking at the block I saw that it has been glued in place, Hindsight! I lowered off and after a good rest sent it next go.

Elliot took one good lob trying to clip the top of his route, before getting it on his next attempt. I finished of doing a couple of laps up Con dem nation E6 6b*** which I did on my last visit here, hoping it will keep it cleaner with more traffic. I also had another run up Chip and Pin to finish the arms off. Who needs to spend money at the wall to have a good session on a rainy day.

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