Friday, 27 May 2011

Wilton Warrior's

Above: Dan on Central Route

After the extreme poor show at Stoney on Tuesday, I was keen for an easy day to get the body back in gear. Having looked through the guide I had my eye's on a few 3 star E1's and some easier lines as well. Tony, Elliot, Dan and John joined me today, and it was the first time at Wilton for Dan and John. We drove into the rain, but stayed optimistic. It was a little damp when we arrived, but after looking to see what was the driest we got stuck in.

Below: Dan on Cameo

I led a little damp, but fine Cameo E1 5a***, whilst Dan led Central Route E1 5b***. These are both outstanding routes for there own reason. One top quality wall climbing with a little runout in places, and the other a bit more sustained and steeper. I led Central Route after Dan whilst John got stuck into Ann E1 5b**. Elliot turned up and mentioned that he had recently climbed Black Mamba E4 6b**, and that it was not that bad. My easy day went down the pan, and despite still not feeling on full form I was getting all the beta, keen to take advantage of the fact it was still chalked up. As I got to the tricky climbing it was obvious that the small height difference between Elliot and I meant his beta was not going to work for me. I wasted time making my mind up, then blew it as I went through the crux. After a good rest it went next go. John and Tony climbed Paradox E2 5b** which was a little damp through the crux, making it a bit tricky.

Below: John on Paradox

Elliot was keen to try Master Spy E4 6a*** which follows an awesome roof feature into and up a steepish crack to finish. He did really well getting into the crux twice, but taking a couple of lobs. I seized the chance to climb on Elliot's gear, having only done the route once before 5 years ago. The crux felt much easier this time, and I was even getting everything back at the rest after the traverse. Things are looking up. Elliot then did a sterling job and sent the route, finding a better way to use the rest seemed to make the difference. Whist all this was good on Dan made short work of the 3 star Wipe out E2 5b.

Below: Starting the hard moves on Black Mamba

Above: Mid crux

All feeling a little tired we started to warm down a bit. Tony floated up 999 HS 4c***, and John got sucked into climbing Dawn HVS 5b***. A great route, but more than you bargin for. At a loose end I decided to finish off with the classic Cheat E3 5b***. I have done this before so little fuss thankfully. Dan was then psyched to lead it as well, so I dropped the rope and seconded John, whilst Dan and Tony dispatched Cheat.

An amazing day for all I think.

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