Wednesday, 18 May 2011

Return to the Roost

Above: Pete on Chip and Pin

After my first visit on Saturday, I was pretty keen to get back and try Con Dem Nation E6 6b***. I have had a couple of sessions route setting and bouldering at ROKT since Sat, so was feeling strong but a little tired. Dan and Pete joined me today and were suitably impressed by the venue and quality of climbing. I warmed up leading Chip and Pin E5 6a*** with a rest to avoid getting a flash pump that would ruin my day. Both Dan and Pete decided to top rope the route first to warm up rather than waste time and energy leading.

Feeling a little warm I started up Con Dem Nation, by soon realised it was way harder than the previous routes I had done here. Steep, powerful climbing on few big hold, but instead moderate flat edges and finger locks. My onsight failed about halfway up the route proper, before it finishes up the easy offwidth at the top. I bashed on to the top and brushed the routes a little hoping it would go next time. As I rested Dan and Pete made quick progress on Chip and Pin, both ready to lead the route. I had a quick attempt again but fell in the crux crack, gutted at fluffing my foot sequence lower down.

Below: Dan on Chip and Pin

As I recovered Dan sent Chip and Pin with ease and Pete made it halfway through the crux section but fluffed his sequence. After a quick recheck, he rested and sent it next go.

Above: Me on Con Dem Nation

I went for my last shot, and somehow managed to send it. I have no idea how I stayed on at the top of the crux crack as both hand came off, but I managed to catch something and make it to a hold I could get something back on to make it into the offwidth. Once there it was easy going to the top. I did mess my hands up a little when I lost form, but didn't notice the blood until I got to the top, thankfully.

Above & Below: Con Dem Nation

Above: Battered hands, but worth it.

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