Wednesday, 11 May 2011

The Chew Valley

I made my first trip into the Chew Valley today with Pete, Tony and Ian. The guys were very generous and came to Upperwood Quarry first, mainly as I wanted to climb Renaissance which is meant to be one of the classic E4's of the area. Pete led Forked Tongue HVS 5b* to start us off. This was a little dirty, but offered some nice climbing after the hard starting moves. Tony and Ian climbed Paleface VS 4c. I got on Renaissance, but found I got stuck making what seemed to be the last hard move to good holds and the arete. After a number of falls here I ditched it and abseiled for the gear. I had a quick look to see what I had been missing and found a good, small crimp about an inch and a half above the filth I had been trying to use. This was not visible when on the route, but that's on sight climbing. I even managed to do the moves in my trainers once I knew the hold was there, Gutted. Another visit required. Tony might send me some pics though tonight.
Uninspired, we went to the Standing Stones. This is quite a remote feeling crag across the moors and has some good looking routes. Pete led Fallen Heros E1 5b**, a steep crack with some excellent climbing. I then led Fish-meal and Revenge E4 6a*. This turned out to be a very serious route with the crux up high and the gear way to low to stop you hitting a poor landing. E5 was Pete and my view. It would feel E4 to headpoint, but we grade for the on sight. Tony and Ian climbed False Prospects HVS 5a* and Womanless Wall VS 4c** I think. Pete finished our day off leading Jiggery Pokery E1 5b*, and Ian was starting up Ocean Wall E1 5b*** when I left.

All in a pretty good day.

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