We started off climbing Every Face Tells a Story HVS 5b**, which was dirty and bold in places. We both thought this route was poor until it joined Boadicea. I then led Boadicea E2 5c***, which again was dirty in the bottom half. This made the climbing feel a bit trickier than it was, but the route was still outstanding through its entire 37m. Dan then had a go, but got a bit spooked by the dirty and insecure nature of the route and lowered off at the second crux.
Mandarin E2 5b,5b*** was up next. I led this in one big pitch which is the best way I'm told. This was the cleanest route of the day, and simply awesome! A must do route that packs loads of interest in to it's 37m. Dan also led this in good style.
Below: Dan on Mandarin
We finished the day off climbing Rhododendron Buttress E2 5c***. Again a bit dirty, but outstanding climbing which just keeps on going. Both of us thought that the climbing was only 5b, but a lot of it.
All the routes that have been cleaned need more traffic, so you will have to persevere with the dirt for now. It is worth a visit for these classic E2's that have quite an adventurous feel about them. Definitely one of the wilder feeling venues I have been to.
1 comment:
Very interesting and informative article indeed. I have to admit that I always follow all news about this.
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