Friday, 30 September 2011

Aberdeen Sea Cliffs

Starting at Johns Heugh

Neil on Jaded Ledge Lizard

I have been up North on holiday with Emma visiting friends.  This meant that I had a couple of days to bag a few routes on the sea cliffs near Aberdeen, which would be a first for me.  Neil took me to Johns Heugh on Tuesday, which is a steep schist crag that it partially tidal.  Unfortunately, conditions were not the best, which took the toll on me.  Steep burly climbing is not my strong point at the best of times, and defo not when it is wet.  I started up Jaded Ledge Lizard E4 5c* and picked my way past the crux before the wet holds, lack of warm up and steepness led me to the decision to bin it.  Neil had a few grades in hand and led the route instead.  After this it was starting to dry up a touch, so Neil also led the E5 6b* direct version as well.  Both routes had great climbing on them, loads of gear and steep climbing, but technically quite straight forwards.  We headed home and decided to go for granite the next day, hoping for not as steep to give me a chance.

Me on Cirrhosis

Wednesday took us to South Cove where we were hoping to climb on Red Wall in the Red Hole area.  Again this was a little damp still, but Hospital Wall was in good shape and had a few good lines on it.  We Warmed up with Neil leading Torn Ligaments E2 5c which offered some nice climbing.  After abseiling down to see if the gear was ok.  I led Cirrhosis E4 6a***.  This is meant to be a bold route, but was well protected by many RP's (safety in numbers).  The climbing was outstanding, technical and quite sustained through the crux.  To wrap things up, Neil led Exploding Laxative E5 6a*.  This was the very similar to Cirrhosis and about the same grade, until you moved to the arete at the top.  Here the climbing was no harder, but required a good head to compose yourself and commit.
Neil on Explosive Laxative

Overall, a good couple of days and I am keen to explore more of the crags once I do a bit more bouldering.

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