This week I have been staying in the CIC Hut working for West Coast Mountain Guides. I met Craig and Andy on Sunday. We chatted to establish aims and organise kit etc. before heading up mid afternoon. A glorious day on Monday brought us some fantastic ice on Comb Gully Buttress IV,5*** and some mixed climbing on South Trident to cover some skills to help through the week. The rest of the week had a changeable forecast, so a suck it and see approach was taken. Up and out early on Tuesday, some avalanche activity and we had to be sharp to pick the right route and approach. We climbed an awesome Green Gully IV,4***, which had 2 mixed pitches starting from the bottom, before good ice at the top. We stayed low on Wednesday and made the most of the day on the SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder IV,5**, getting back to the hut before the real wet weather arrived. The forecast for Thursday was apocalyptic after midday, so the early risers seized the chance again. We topped out of Central Gully Right Hand IV,4*** by 11am. The temp rose around 10:30 and we heard avalanche and cornice collapse in and around the No.3 and 4 areas. Today was a real ming fest, so we walked out early and made our journeys home.
I am now back in Yorkshire awaiting the arrival of baby Hughes, so my season is over a little earlier than usual. Hopefully thing will improve and folks can keep going a bit longer up there.