Thursday, 29 March 2012


I took my first visit to the Roost of the season with Dan today.  This is an under used crag that has a fantastic selection of hard trad routes, that makes excellent early season mileage.  There are only the E7's here I have not done, but they are all excellent and worth repeating to get fit.  Dan has only been here once before, so he still has loads to do.

Dan Flashing Chip and Pin Indirect

Joining the normal route before it's crux

I put a rope up Chip and Pin E5 6a*** to get warmed up.  Despite not being here for a while, the moves seem to be cemented in my mind now, thankfully.  Dan took advantage of this to warm up as well, as this is the only route he had already done here.  I then led Chip and Pin Indirect E5 6b***.  This gives a more sustained and tricky start to join the crux section of the normal route.  Whilst Dan continued his warm up I tried Con dem Nation E6 6b***.  I was hoping to climb this ok, but soon realised that it was dirty.  Rather than over grip and get pumped, I cleaned and put the clips in as I went.  This paid off and I led the route without too much trouble.  The conditions on the whole today were excellent, where the routes where clean.

Entering the harder climbing

Great moves

It just keeps going

Dan then stepped up and flashed Chip and Pin Indirect, which made good viewing.  I tried to wrap my day up climbing Sleepy Hollow E6 6b***.  This was pretty dirty and damp, which along with my tiredness contributed to my less than perfect performance.  We did a few more top ropes to get the gear back and take advantage of the training opportunity.

The video shows Dan's ascent of Chip and Pin Indirect to the normal crux of that route and me climbing Con dem nation in a sports styley!

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