We walked in on Sunday and dropped our kit at the hut and had a brew, before heading out for a route. The conditions dictate staying low, so we chose Gutless IV,5** on the Douglas Boulder, which is a bit nippy for the grade. An easy snow/ice pitch took us quickly to the first belay. Then another steep ice step led to the chimney proper. This was a real thrutch fest. Not one to do with a rucksack. The exit out the chimney is interesting at the moment, with 85 degree snow, leading to a soft finish to reach the belay. The rest is straight forward to the top. It was a wild day and Alex had a raw winter experience again.
|Approching the belay after the chimney of Gutless|
|Pitch 1 of the Curtain|
|Approaching the 2nd belay. Check out the buried hut on the right|