Loads of Snow

Today I started a 5 day climbing course for Alan Kimber, but a lot of snow yesterday and overnight has made finding places to climb today difficult. John had a slight hangover as well so we opted to have a relax session looking at belays etc. at Alan's. This proved to be useful and we will put it into practise tomorrow hopefully.

There was an impressive roof avalanche off Alan's garage which partly covered a couple of the cars and ripped off the gutters. I had seen evidence of this in a few other places around the fort today, so can only imagine what has been happening up high today.

North Buttress

Above: Getting stuck into North Buttress

With the wild weather forecast again we headed to North Buttress on the Buachallie. It was a busy day with loads of teams with the same idea, but we managed to work around each other. The route was in excellent condition, but the weather was as wild as predicted with even more snow. dave and Colm led the first 2 pitches between them as I worked above to help clean gear placements etc. I then took over to lead the the crux pitch before we abseiled off.

Above: Leading up the second pitch

Below: Paul and Ronan keeping positive in the ming

Campbell and Andy were behind me, and John had gone to Curved ridge but bailed due to too much snow. Ken had a group on the North Ridge of Stob Ban. The had been quite a bit of snow fall during the day, with 4 inches on the car at 14:30. Conditions will continue to be challenging.

A great few days for everyone despite the challenging weather.

Compression Cracks

Above: Me leading crux

After our new route yesterday, we were in the market for a bit of steep ice. Compression seemed a winner as we walked in, but was less than perfect when on it. The ice was old and coming away in chunks on the steep sections. Depite this, the lads had a great time and were again put through their passes (as requested). There was a sizable avalanche out of Castle South Gully whilst we climbed as well. We bailed off after the first steep pitch, then picked a safe way down looking at avalanche stuff as we went. Despite some wild weather it was a great day.

Above & Below: Dave and Colm enjoying the ming

Campbell joined us, but John and Andy climbed Faulty Towers. There were teams on South West Ridge of the boulder, Vanishing (which avalanched above), Hadrian's and Orion.

Above: Campbell approaching a belay

Something New?

Above: Colm and Dave

Today I was out with Dave and Colm who are clients I have been working with for the last 6 years. The aim of the 3 days is to take their climbing forward, so some steeper harder routes are on the cards. We walked up to the Far Eastern Buttress with a few ideas after reports of it being very white yesterday, and with the high winds and avalanche forecast it was a good choice. Some of the snow had gone after the wetter than expected weather last night. We chose the steepest line that was white and went for that. This went up the winter start of Yen, then up the steep crack to the right instead of following it's second pitch. We then finished straight up. The second pitch was the crux and went at VI,6/7. Good sustained climbing at the grade, thin feet and hooks to start up the steepest section, then the hooks improved and good gear throughout.

Above: Campbell on the Eastern Slant

There were 3 other teams out working for me today on the Eastern Slant. Campbell did a variation finish, but not sure what yet.

York Alpine Club Snowcraft Day

Today was my second day with folks from YAC. The aim of the day was to look at and use a range of snow belays. We walked up to the Fiaciall Corie Cas which had very firm snow and a steep headwakk, perfect for what we wanted to cover. Once everyone had dug themselves a bucket seat and buried axe, it was time to pitch up a steeper slopes. We kept them short to maximise the digging, and force everyone to belay on the steepest section of the slope.

Once we had topped out it was time kook at descent. We used bollards to manage ourselves down the steep section in 2 abseils. This gave each team the challenge of safeguarding themselves whislt cutting a new bollard.

To finish the day we had a quick look at holding a leader fall in a bucket and belaying dynamically.

A great day and very productive.

York Alpine Club Winter Skills

I was back in the gorms today working with a group from York Alpine Club. The aim of todays session was to cover a range of winter skills. We started on the edge of tyhe Fiacaill Ridge and took advantage of the rock hard conditions to kick and cut steps. Once we had finished this session the snow had softened enough to look at a bit of sliding. After some interesting attempts and many good ones, we walked around to the flat ice and cramponed up. A good session on the flat ice led us nicely to walking up the goat track and into the sun. We then cruised around the coire and over 1141m and down. A great day in awesome weather.

There were plenty of teams out in the easy gullies which mostly still look in good condition. A team climbed Invernookie, but it was looking very thin. All the rock is black and it feels like April up there already.

Rease Heath College

This week I have been working with Rease Heath College again in the Gorms. A total change in the weather this week, with wall to wall sunshine for 3 days this week we managed to get a lot done. We started the week with a skills session in Sneachda and a journey up the goat track around to 1141. The next day was about a journey. We made an ascent of the Fiaciall Ridge and traveresed Lochain, where we looked at approaching an edge. To finish the day we walked back the the Rothemurcis Lodge.

Yesterday we went into the ciste to look at snow belays and anchors. After a long stretch of snow (and many buckets later) we topped out. We then covered bollards as a means of descent. Another good day.

Today we walked back into Sneachda and climbed Aladdin's Couloir to finish the week on a high. Topping out at 11:30, we then cruised up to the top of Cairngorm before heading for hot chocolate. A great week in all.

Some pics to come.