Today I was out with Dave and Colm who are clients I have been working with for the last 6 years. The aim of the 3 days is to take their climbing forward, so some steeper harder routes are on the cards. We walked up to the Far Eastern Buttress with a few ideas after reports of it being very white yesterday, and with the high winds and avalanche forecast it was a good choice. Some of the snow had gone after the wetter than expected weather last night. We chose the steepest line that was white and went for that. This went up the winter start of Yen, then up the steep crack to the right instead of following it's second pitch. We then finished straight up. The second pitch was the crux and went at VI,6/7. Good sustained climbing at the grade, thin feet and hooks to start up the steepest section, then the hooks improved and good gear throughout.
Above: Campbell on the Eastern Slant
There were 3 other teams out working for me today on the Eastern Slant. Campbell did a variation finish, but not sure what yet.