The Chew Valley

I made my first trip into the Chew Valley today with Pete, Tony and Ian. The guys were very generous and came to Upperwood Quarry first, mainly as I wanted to climb Renaissance which is meant to be one of the classic E4's of the area. Pete led Forked Tongue HVS 5b* to start us off. This was a little dirty, but offered some nice climbing after the hard starting moves. Tony and Ian climbed Paleface VS 4c. I got on Renaissance, but found I got stuck making what seemed to be the last hard move to good holds and the arete. After a number of falls here I ditched it and abseiled for the gear. I had a quick look to see what I had been missing and found a good, small crimp about an inch and a half above the filth I had been trying to use. This was not visible when on the route, but that's on sight climbing. I even managed to do the moves in my trainers once I knew the hold was there, Gutted. Another visit required. Tony might send me some pics though tonight.

Uninspired, we went to the Standing Stones. This is quite a remote feeling crag across the moors and has some good looking routes. Pete led Fallen Heros E1 5b**, a steep crack with some excellent climbing. I then led Fish-meal and Revenge E4 6a*. This turned out to be a very serious route with the crux up high and the gear way to low to stop you hitting a poor landing. E5 was Pete and my view. It would feel E4 to headpoint, but we grade for the on sight. Tony and Ian climbed False Prospects HVS 5a* and Womanless Wall VS 4c** I think. Pete finished our day off leading Jiggery Pokery E1 5b*, and Ian was starting up Ocean Wall E1 5b*** when I left.

All in a pretty good day.

CWLA Training

Yesterday I was working for Dan McKinlay on a CWLA Training course based at Leeds Wall. This is still a very new award that is a bolt on module for those who hold a CWA or SPA and want to be qualified to teach leading indoors or on an artificial wall. We had 8 candidates who all had a good level of experience which made the course very interesting and gave us lots to discuss. Over all I think everyone went away feeling that the course had given them some new skills and ideas to add to their current experience and help take them forward to a swift assessment for some.

Below: Some fun and games to finish off the course

Cratcliffe

Above: Dan on Suicide Wall

Today I met up with Dan and Pete and made my first visit to Cratcliffe. As I am still on the recovery wagon, it is good to go to new places where all routes are a bonus. Dan Started us off leading Suicide Wall HVS 5b***, this is truly worth all it;s 3 stars. Steep, interesting climbing with not too much polish.

Above & Below: Five Finger Exercise

I then led the classic Five Finger Exercise E2 5c***. Excellent climbing and the route of the day for me. Spot on for the grade and only hard at the top, brilliant. Pete tried an E2 link up which was one of 2 routes left that he could do here. Not on top form, Pete bailed.

Above & Below: Dan and Me on Boot Hill

Dan then stepped it up and led Boot Hill E3 5c***. After taking a little to commit to the hard move on the long man variation, he cruised to the top. I then did the route, taking just as long to commit to the tricky move. A pretty good route.

Below: Fern Hill

We finished off are day of ticking classics with us both leading Fern Hill E2 5c***. Great climbing, never that hard with good protection, a perfect end to a awesome day.

Below: Fern Hill

A Bit of Ilkley

I went up to Ilkley today with the Wif and Tess (a dog we borrow) to get out and do something. It was really windy so we walked over to the rocky valley and climbed Flake Route Severe***. I would say the extreme polish has ruined this route and the wind didn't help either. We bailed back to the Cow for a spot of bouldering, but was not on fire with whist my back is recovering. I had a bash on Ron's traverse V6, but came off on the last hard move every time. I need a bit of local knowledge I reckon and this will be easy. My spotter was now busy away with Tess, so I arranged the mat and gave Baby Spice E5 6c/V7 a bash. Reaching the last hard move I couldn't commit when I realised the mat had been moved by the wind. Fighting hard i managed to reverse back to the ground, so saved the flash.

Above: V3 6b near the Cow

Finished the session off with a few easy problems then headed back to soak in the bath and spend the next few days recovering. Frustrating process.

Pavey Ark

Above: Kat on The Bracken Clock

Today Kat and I went to Pavey for the first time. I am still getting over a torn back muscle, so easy routes are the order of things for a while. With a good number of 3 star classics here, there is no shortage of routes to go at. First up was The Bracken Clock E2 5a,5c,5b,4a*** (102m). This was a pretty good route, but a little on the easy side overall for the grade. A couple of big rp's or super light wild country wires would make the boldish start to the crux pitch safe. I linked the 2nd and 3rd pitch together as it makes sense to make a great pitch. After this route we descended East gully and then nipped up Rake wall End VS 4c***. This was quiet a disappointment as 3 start routes go. The main pitch was a bit average, so I hope the other 3 star routes are a bit better on this crag.

No doubt my back will be a bit sore tomorrow, but the road to recovery is a slow one.

Above: Kat on The Bracken Clock

Climbing Wall Award Courses

I will be running a number of CWA courses this year, starting with the dates below.

Training Dates:

7-8th May

28-29th May

25-26th June

2-3rd July

Assessment

1st May

Training costs £150 (includes abseil module)

Assessment Costs £95 (includes Abseil module)

For more details please contact us.

Back Strain and New Kit

I managed to strain my back last Friday whilst on a rest day, so no more rest days for me, they're dangerous. It is recovering quite well, so I should be back in action next week. My spirits have been lifted with the arrival some Edelrid kit that is new for 2011.

First up are the Mission Quickdraw. I have actually been using these through the winter and have been impressed by the lightness and usability in that environment. Since being back on the rock, I have noticed a big difference on the harness in terms of weight. The quickdraw only weighs 59g and each crab only 25g making it the lightest in the world i believe by 0.5g. As you would expect there has been no compromise in strength either.

Below: Mission Quickdraw and HMS Strike

The HMS Strike is a light weight screwgate that only weighs 65g and still offers max strength. It has a slightly smaller form which makes it perfect for those longer routes where weight and clutter reduction are important.

Edelrid climbing shoes are still not that well known in the UK, but I have been using them now for over 2 years and really rate them. The latest addition to the performance range are the Typhoons which I was lucky enough to have 6 months ago. Designed as an aggressive shoe, these do deliver on steep ground, but I have also found they are awesome on slabs and walls as well. These will be my all rounder shoe. If i am heading away and can only really take one shoe not knowing exactly what I will be on, these win out. I have climbed 7c on limestone, E7 on grit and E5 on Schist in these so recommend them. The Tornado is the other shoe that came in the bag of tricks. This has been my fav shoe for trad and bouldering over the last 2 years. The new shoe has been tweaked slightly to improve it, so i am hoping it will continue to perform. Slightly less aggressive than the Typhoon, it is sensitive and accurate on small edges and smears.

Above: Tornado (left) and Typhoon (right)

Ropes new for 2011 that came were the Apus 7.8mm. These are the ultimate in light weight half ropes weighing just over 2kg per 50m. If you are after a set of ropes for big routes home or abroad I would recommend these or the Merlin 8mm's.

If you though that Edelrid only made ropes and a few other bits, click on the logo on the right and flick through the massive range of kit they have. You will be suprised.