Tony started us off with a swift lead of the bold Better Late Than Never E1 5a*. Some good smeary moves make this not too hard to climb, but you need to keep your head together. I was keen to get straight on one of my routes for the day The Brush Off E4 5c***. This is a super bold slabby arete which looks from the ground like you can fiddle in some runners. How wrong I was. A single friend half way up was it, and the hardest move at the top. A first class grit route.
Above and Below: Getting to grips with The Brush Off
Tony was up again and led Fringe Benefit E1 5b**, another bold slab route. Feeling happy with myself I tried the onsight solo of Europe After Rain E4 6b. This John Allen technical wall climb was hard all the way to the top, which was very sloppy and dirty and ejected me quite dramatically. I missed the mats and took Tony down the hill with me, limping away with a bruised ankle. Better look next time with more mats and spotter me thinks. It then started to rain, but undeterred by a little wetness I set off up Auto da Fer E4 6a***, my second aim for the day. As I reached the top of the crack the arete had started to wet out a little, I pushed on slipping off the hard move. A bit frustrated, I got it second go.
Tony was on fire today and finished his run with solid ascents of Outsider E1 5b* and THe Original Route E2 5c*. An awesome day with loads to go back for.
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