Wednesday, 5 September 2012

Have A Little Hope Second Ascent

As Pete, Dan, Huw and I visited the Pits again today, I had a feeling it would be the last time for a while.  Don't get me wrong, I have enjoyed every route I have climbed there.  However, there is not that much left for me to do, with the exception of a couple of routes that need a good brush.

With this thought in mind, I was keen to make it a good one.  Pete started us off cruising the under graded Pantagruel VS 5a*.  I then soloed Windbreaker E2 5b** and Pipe Spanner E1 5c*, but trailed a rope so Pete could follow (there are no runners).  Meanwhile, Dan and Huw made short work of Plumb Line VS 4c***, Sodom E1 5c** and Gomorrah E1 5b**.

Above & Below: Dan on Gomorrah

It was time to step things up a bit.  So I abseiled down Sagittarius Flake E5 6b*** to see how wet the finishing hold actually were.  Answer, Pretty wet.  However, this is the driest I had seen the route, so opted to go for the flash anyway as the gear was good.  I was very happy when the route was sent with little fuss.  The wet holds at the top were a good size, so I could dyno to the top to avoid a wet foothold.

Tricky last moves on Sagittarius Flake
We all moved into Pit No.1 where Pete and Dan got stuck into Calamity Crack E4 6a***.  Dan made a fine flash ascent, then Pete made a good clean lead straight after.  Huw put in a sterling effort to lead Mimosa E2 5c* which was far steeper and pumpier than it looked.  With my psyche still high I went for the on sight second ascent of Have a Little Hope E5 6b/c*.  This was only first climbed on the 28th August 2012, so this would be a quick repeat.  After following Mimosa to the point where you traverse thinly out across the wall, I chilled out and sussed out where to go.  Once I had worked it out, the thin moves took me boldly to the easy finish up the groove.  Pretty happy with that!!

Easy ground on Have A Little Hope
Pete on Mimosa
Pete then finished off with a swift lead of Mimosa, and I ticked Compo's Advance V4.

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