Friday, 1 February 2013


Entering the main corner

Yesterday Dave and I went into Sneachda and climbed Damnation VI, 6**. This is the last route on Aladdin's for me to do, and has a bit of a reputation.  The main pitch up the corners is the crux, and offers some excellent climbing.  We had useful thin ice in the corner for your axes, but it was not thick enough for your feet.  This meant it was a smash and smear affair between thin but positive holds on the left wall for your feet, whilst smearing the crack.  There is a in situ wire and peg at the base of the main corner, then nothing until the top.  The climbing is steady, and gets easier the further away from the gear you got, so not too bad.  I thought the technical crux was get to the main corner, which was safe, so the grade seemed fair.  If there was a good amount of ice in the corner it would be a romp.

Dave embracing the ming

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