Thursday, 31 January 2013


After a frustrating start to the week, winter has returned.  As I am working in the East at the weekend, it made sense to head over and get in a couple of days for myself.
Over the roof, and the crux ahead

Tamsin on a slightly un-orientated photo of the Message

Lander Sending Large and through the crux
 Matt is keen to improve his experience of harder mixed routes, so we opted for the final route on the Mess of Pottage I had not climbed, Mariella VI(VII?),7*.  With the guide suggesting this could be slightly under graded, I was keen to see what it had to offer.  It was clear from the start that gear was not going to be great today, with a good layer of black ice lining the cracks.  Undeterred, I pushed on to the roof which gave good sustained with very little reliable protection.  Thankfully my commitment was rewarded with a bomber hex at the roof.  Move quality climbing around the roof, led to a thin and very committing crux on the wall above.  This then led to easier runout ground to the belay.  The rest of the route was pretty steady and we made it back to Aviemore for a late lunch and coffee.

Other teams climbed the Slant, The Message, Hidden Chimney, and the the Direct Start, Original Summer route and the Seam.

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