Tuesday, 7 December 2010

Welsh Cold Climbs Classic

Above: Me pitch 1 and Below Matt following

Today Matt and I walked into the Black Ladders with a few ideas in mind as usual. We were both a bit tired after yesterday's running about, so we opted for the easier option of Western Gully*** V/VI, 6 (there is still a little debate). This climbs the 300m+ gully up the middle of the crag. We soloed up the first 150m of easy ground to reach the first of the hard pitches. Grade 3 in the old guide (for snow and ice), but a good IV, 5 in the new which is about right. We then climbed the direct out of the cave which gave a fantastic pitch of technical 6 climbing, with some strenuous chimneying. The crux slab on the 3rd pitch was pretty straight forward tech 6 balancy climbing with a tuff exit to easy ground. One more grade 4 pitch took us to a long slog up easy ground to finish. A stunning veiw at the top and we meet up with friends who had climbed Gallipoli for the walk out. There are plenty of routes to go at up there.

Above and Below: Matt on pitch 2

Below: Me on pitch 3
Below: Matt on the final graded pitch

Bel.ow: Dave, Matt, Jon, Sally and Me.

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