Saturday 8 January 2011

Ordinary Route with a Twist


Today I was out with Matt and Freda with aim of trying something mixed and a little tricky. We descided to do Ordinary Route which offers a good first pitch, then easier climbing to the top. The Route was buried, so there was a massive amount of cleaning to do, especially on the slab of the first pitch which was a foot deep. Freda and Matt handled this nice IV,5 pitch really well, but due to the amount of snow and my blinkers I climbed to far left before meeting the main buttress again. This worked out great. I followed a series of steep corners for 55m at V,6 that gave some of the best climbing I have done for a while (despite the extreme cleaning required even on this steeper ground). Matt and Freda got fully involved and enjoyed every minute of it. A short step then masses of mountaineering ground to us to the top, before the extreme bum slide down Broad Gully.
Below: Entering the Bonus pitch

Above & Below: Getting stuck in

Below; Matt coming up the first part of the steep corners


Greg and Steve climbed the Duel today, see Greg's blog for a fully report and pics. Also Ken and Scott climbed Scabbard Chimney, Lee and partner climbed Inclination and others Dorsal and Boomerang Gully.

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