Today I final put to bed the project I had at the Roost. I first cleaned the line in October last year and climbed it on a shunt, but needed 1 hold at the end of the crux to dry out. Despite returning many times, the hold was constantly wet. Even so I climbed the line over and over to get it as clean as possible for when the hold dried. During this time I also checked out the gear. The climbing was bold to a good hold in the break, but that hold was also where the only cam would hold. I didn't want to step into the neighbouring route and finish as for that. So it meant either placing gear off small holds and the next move being harder, or cracking on. Bearing this in mind, and struggling to find a belayer to take a chance and walk up there, I opted to solo the route above pads.
The walk back up there today was rewarded with dry holds for the first time in 6 months. Having been waiting for 6 months to do the route, I was pretty happy about that. After 30 mins of re cleaning, and a further hour climbing the route again to get the moves wired, it was game on.
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| Climbing the lower prow |
The lower prow went quickly, a quick shakeout and chalk up took my mind off the climbing ahead. I made the first of the hard moves, then the next. Now committed, I kept pulling not thinking about failing, but simply about each move. The move to the break felt very committing, but good. A moment to compose, then the last big move to a sloper, really locking hard to reach. Sticking it, and relief I would surely finish now. A couple more moves to the top, and rocking over to finish what seems like the longest wait for a route ever. So happy!!!!! Daddy Daycare seems an appropriate name at the moment, so I'll go with that. I had recorded the ascent, but as I was using my technical genius to pull off some stills, I managed to delete it. At least Emma was highly amused at my muppetry.
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| Fully engrossed in the long crux section |
Daddy Daycare E7 6b* 12m (Adam Hughes 18/4/13)
Climb the undercut prow left of the crack (of the Virus). From the break, climb the slightly overhanging wall on small holds and slopey pockets until a committing move leads to a better hold in the break to the right. Avoiding the temptation to traverse into the Virus, make a big move direct to slopers, then the top. Excitting!!!
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| Yellow: Daddy Daycare Blue: The Virus |
4 comments:
Good effort Adam. Still ripping up the Calder-scene, I see.
I try my best! You have been doing ok yourself I see.
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