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John chillin' before the crux |
I met John at Almscliff today to back a few routes and enjoy the good weather before it turns bad. John was psyched to push himself after his Yosemite trip, and Big Greeny E3 6a*** was on his radar. This is one of the big 3 have not done yet, so I was more than happy to give it a bash. John had abseiled down to see if it was dry etc. and was going to boulder around to warm up, but my over keen attitude saw me tying in thinking I would just give it a bash. Steady climbing takes you to a good hands off rest before you commit to the crux up the headwall. After a quick shake I was into the crux and happy to find positive crimps which suited me to a T. I would say this is the easiest of the 3 E3's here. John then went for the flash, but his head beat him with only 1 tricky move to go, but he took the fall with pride and was full of confidence on his next go and crushed it.
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John pulling through the crux of The Big Greeny |
We moved around to black wall where I fancied 'Arries' Ook.E4 6a**. This has a bold, delicate and technical start which leads you to gear at 2/3 height. Here it changes style to become big steep moves to join the finish of Black Wall Eliminate. A great route.
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Trying to work out the best way to use the undercut through the crux |
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Starting up the steep upper section |
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Pulling through the last hard move |
To wrap things up we did a bit of bouldering. Making rapid ascents of the Gypsy E3 6a/V3* and some of the eliminates on Morrell's Wall.
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