Monday, 3 October 2011

Almscliff Classics

John chillin' before the crux
I met John at Almscliff today to back a few routes and enjoy the good weather before it turns bad.  John was psyched to push himself after his Yosemite trip, and Big Greeny E3 6a*** was on his radar.  This is one of the big 3 have not done yet, so I was more than happy to give it a bash.  John had abseiled down to see if it was dry etc. and was going to boulder around to warm up, but my over keen attitude saw me tying in thinking I would just give it a bash.  Steady climbing takes you to a good hands off rest before you commit to the crux up the headwall.  After a quick shake I was into the crux and happy to find positive crimps which suited me to a T.  I would say this is the easiest of the 3 E3's here.  John then went for the flash, but his head beat him with only 1 tricky move to go, but he took the fall with pride and was full of confidence on his next go and crushed it.
John pulling through the crux of The Big Greeny
We moved around to black wall where I fancied 'Arries' Ook.E4 6a**.  This has a bold, delicate and technical start which leads you to gear at 2/3 height.  Here it changes style to become big steep moves to join the finish of Black Wall Eliminate.  A great route.

Trying to work out the best way to use the undercut through the crux

Starting up the steep upper section

Pulling through the last hard move

To wrap things up we did a bit of bouldering.  Making rapid ascents of the Gypsy E3 6a/V3* and some of the eliminates on Morrell's Wall.

No comments: