Wednesday, 26 October 2011


The plan was to met Elliot at Wilton today, but the rain overnight has wet the routes we were keen to get on.  Instead we went to Hawkcliffe.  There are some amazing routes here, but they have been naglected over the years.  Recently I have done a couple of routes here,  as well as a few other locals that have been cleaning the 3 star classics.
Elliot getting involved with the pod on Squirrel Crack

It was Elliot's first visit, so he was first up on Squirrel Crack E1 5b***.  This is on the easy side of the grade, but offers some outstanding and amusing climbing up the long crack.  Elliot cruised this, which then meant it was time to look at the main objectives for the day.  Elliot was keen for Flame Arete E5 6b**, and I Driveby E6 6b***.  We both Abseiled down the routes to give them a clean.  They had seen recent traffic which made this quite quick, but was still worth the effort after the rain last night.

I was first up to try and flash Driveby.  The gear is excellent and can be placed off jugs, with the peg in reach for me from the bridge in the chimney.  This route is totally my style, balancey moves out of the chimney, then sustained crimping above.  I was totally psyched to flash this with little trouble, and was keen to see Elliot do the same on Flame Arete.

Unfortunately, Elliot was not on form today.  He got shut down by the crux moves leaving the break.  I blame it on his long legs etc.  A route that it better suited to the average stature.  I took advantage of Elliot's hard work and had a bash.  Moving through the crux I slipped off a damp undercut, NOOOOOOOO!  A quick brush and lower off, it went a peachy next go.  Gutted to blow the flash, but these things happen.  I thought the route was very good, but probably 6a for me (the right body dimensions I guess).

Get down here folks.  It will only get better with traffic.


Dave Warburton said...

Cracking Crag - don't know how we missed you! We were on Emerald Buttress then went to Flame Arete! Did you guys try 'Stepmother Jag'?

Did you have a look at the direct to Driveby too?


Adam Hughes said...

Didn't look at either. Nik J has been looking at the direct i think. How was woodland.

Dave Warburton said...

Fine, you'll piss it. Some nice climbing though and worth doing to tick off everything on Emerald.

Unlucky with Flame Arete nice bit of climbing, and EFFORT with Driveby!

Adam Hughes said...

Good effort. You should get on driveby. Super safe and very easy for E6. French 7a+, so wiuld be mid E5 on limestone. Always the same on grit. I used think I was reasonable till i started trying to onsight the same grades on limestone. Has made all the difference over the last few years though.

I fancy Birdsong. If your keen then let ne know. These things are easier to work out when there is other imput.

Dave Warburton said...

Driveby and Blood on the Shamrock are firmly on the list, though i must admit i'm not great on small, slopey crimps unless it's cold!
Birdsong looks class, but steepness isn't my thing, currently! I think Nik Jennings is keen for Birdsong though i think he wants the onsight/flash - it will need a brush up and peg check, i imagine. I couldn only dream of headpointing it...

Peg is good in isolation on Driveby then? If good, i'm half keen to let it cool down then give it a go GU or wouldn't you trust the peg that much? Sequence fairly obvious?


Adam Hughes said...

Peg seemed good and there is a good wire before the crux which is fiddly to place. I can give you as much beta as you want. A move by move guide. Birdsong will be a headpoint for me, and I said that i would let nik know when i cleaned it. Might go over on saturday and start brushing. Hopefully thete tomorrow if its stayed dry.