Monday, 17 October 2011

The Virus

The weather has been better than expected here today, so I took good advantage this morning and got out early.  I went up to the Bridestones first despite the wind to try Cleopatra V5/6 (depends on the guide you look in).  This is a great problem with one tricky move low down then straight forwards to the top.  I thought it was on the easy side of V5, but awesome none the less.  Out of Sight V6 is a funky little arete problem just around the corner.  I was pleasantly surprised when this was sent with in a few tries.    After a couple more problems I boosted and went to the natural section of the Roost.

There have been 5 new route go up here recently and I don't think any have been repeated.  These are all my possible solo range, so I thought I would go and have a look.  Jumble Hole Jaspers E1 5b* and Ost Gut Ton E3 5c* were only done yesterday, so I knew these were clean and good to go.  Both routes were average and pleasant enough, but I would not give them any stars.  The 2 harder routes looked much better.  The hardest of them, The Virus E5 6a* takes a steep crack, then seam/flake up the overhanging main wall to an exciting finish.  I gave this a quick brush and toprope to see how it was.  The climbing was straight forward and on the easy side for 6a, with the hardest part of the route being topping out.  After a short rest I soloed this, but was pretty gripped on the top out.  The climbing was very good though.  I abseiled down Flaming Stepe Beko! E4 6a* and brushed it.  This looked fine, so I flashed this Solo.  I thought that E3 5c* would be a better grade, but the climbing was excellent.  There was only one more to do, Ig n Stu's techno Groove E2 6a*.  This needed a brush, but was fine after that.  At only 6m it is more of a highball problem, and reasonable.

All in not too bad a day.

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