Monday, 24 October 2011

The Elevator E6 6c**?

I had a tip off about The Elevator E6 6c** at Eldwick Crag.  This is a 12m steep, technical slab, so right up my street.  John had agreed to give me a belay and I was keen to try and flash it having the benefit of video beta from Dave Warburton and Huw Goodall.  I arrived about 30 mins before John, so abseiled down to brush the holds after the low cloud last night.  A bit of chalk quickly took away the dampness and let me see the crux holds.  Whist waiting, I soloed up to the gear and placed it before reversing to the ground.  After bouldering up and down the start a bit more to warm up, I was chilling when John turned up.  A quick chat and my eagerness to get it down saw me up to the gear and into the tricky moves above.  The last 2 moves proved to be the crux, but all the video beta paid off as I found myself latching the top.  YEAH!!!!!

Although I have done over 10 E6's, this would be the first I have flashed.  Unfortunately, I am not convinced the meaty grade is right.  To me it is no bolder than Wings of Unreason or Auto de Fer, both E4.  It is however, much harder to read and would be a very good onsight.  Therefore E5 might be fair.  The tech grade is way over as well.  My thoughts are that it is a balancy 6b.  I am only 5'10, so can't even claim the advantage of height for this discrepancy.  Never the less, it is a great bit of climbing and worth a visit.

John working hard on Die or Comply
We also had a go on Die or Comply font 7a+ or V7?.  This is a good looking finger crack, that has some excellent locks, tricky layaways and good but small footholds.  We both slipped off the crux a couple of times as the hold was suffering with a damp spot.  I abseiled down to brushed it and removed some mud and plants that where causing the problem.  This made all the difference, and I sent the problem straight away.  John got extremely close, but maybe needs another quick visit.

John setting up to start the crux couple of moves
Again this is a great little problem, but over graded.  I thought font 6c or V5 was a better reflection.

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