|About to enter the hard climbing|
Friday, 14 October 2011
Wilton 2 and Egerton
I traveled over to Bolton today and met up with Elliot and Stu hoping to find some dry rock. The main reason was to try Pigs on the Wing E5 6b*** at Wilton 2 if no one was shooting in there. Luckily no one was in there and it was the driest wall around today. As it had been so wet I abseiled down to brush and check the route. It was a bit smeggy and the only jug was a puddle, but I managed to soak it up and dry it off enough. The aim was to flash it, but after starting up it still felt greasy and very reachy for my. Not really trusting the RP runners and the crux move looking like it would but me very close to, if not on the deck, I opted for the soft option and toproped it. The crux move was pretty hard for 6b, and I was shocked when neither Elliot or Stu could do it. This did re assure me that it was hard as I found it nails. The move got better as I warmed up and the hold dried out a bit move with traffic. After a few goes to get the move wired, I led the route it the best style I had climbed it on any go. Awesome climbing, but quite committing with the landing.
We moved over to Egerton where we all climbed Satin Sapphire E3 5c***. There are still a few 3 star route here that we all want to try, but have to clean them all before we can. It seems to be a route a visit here.