Thursday, 13 October 2011

Eastby Take 2

After the bad weather this week I was hopeful that I would get something done today.  I took a walk up to Hawkcliffe spurred on by the knowledge that it had been dry last Friday after all the rain, but was not surprised  to find it very wet.  Eastby was my back up, and thankfully dry enough to try and tick the last of the stared routes ate the crag..

I started by soloing Block Buttress HVS 5a*, which had a few damp bits on it.  This prompted me throw a rope down Genuflex E3 6a* to brush it and see how dry it was.  There was a little damp on the crux break and    I had heard it was a bit of a sand bag, so tried it on the rope.  I'm glad I did.  It felt more like stiff 6b.  I got the move dialed, then soloed.  Hangs E4 6a* was the last route on the buttress and more my style, so I was happy to flashed this one.  Defective Too Early E4 6b** was next up.  A hard crux low down with a poor landing meant headpointing this was the sensible choice.  After a quick toprope, I soloed this as well.  I was running out of steam a bit, so moved on to some slabby routes.  After checking they were dry, I rounded off the day soloing Blinkered Variation E3 5c*, Mistaken Identity E1 5b* and Action Traction E4 6a*.

Another great day at Eastby in the bag, and a couple of stared routes still to come back for.

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