Wednesday, 19 June 2013

New Route In Dingy Lancs Quarry, and Some Pits Cranking!

Yesterday I went to Cross Stones Quarry to have a look at an arete that needed straightening out.  I would have to say this is a poor quarry, and if I had known what it as like before getting there, I wouldn't have bothered.  That said, The couple of routes I did were not terrible.  I on sighted Broken Lance E1 5b**, the abseiled at checked the upper arete of this that had been missed out originally.  It looked pretty straight forwards, so I soloed that to give Broken Lance Direct E3 5b*.  As I was here I on sighted Bean Stalk E1 5b**, which had some good climbing on it.

Today after a change in plans, I met Elliot at Running Hill Pits.  I had a list of 3 routes to tick off.  So was pretty happy that it was cool in the shade.  We soloed around to warm up, the most noticeable on sight was Pipe Inspector E3 5c, which we both climbed.  We both then gave our chosen routes a brush.  Mine Adrenaline Run E6 6a* may not have been climbed since the late 90's, and was very dirty.  Elliot's Sagittarius Flake E4/5 6b*** was not too bad.
Mid Crux

Almost there


I pre placed a couple of wires high up.  These would have been ok to place on lead, But it seemed easier than cleaning for too long.  I was psyched to then flash the route, with one scare as my heel popped off the arete as I caught the hold of the arete with my hand.  Elliot had tried SF on a toprope a while ago and got shut down.  He made short work of it today though.

Elliot pulling hard

Elliot then had a go on Adrenaline Run, but could not do the start of the hard climbing.  After taking a few falls he sacked it off, and kindly brush Surgical Spirit E6 6b* for me to try and on sight.  This climbs the wall between Yorick's Crack and Adrenaline Run.  I managed to on sight it, JUST!  it was quite fierce to the point it joined Yorick's at 2/3 height.  The last route on my list was Yorick's Crack E6 6c**, but I could not do the crux moves low down.  I managed not to fall off, so the on sight is still a possibility at least.

We the moved into the first quarry, where Elliot tried to on sight Calamity Crack E4 6a***.  He put in a fine effort, but fell off the last move of the crux.  Whilst he recovered I did a quick lead up it, having not climbed it in a while.  It was so nice to climb it again.  Tired arms making it feel a little harder than it is.  Elliot then dispatched the route next go.

Happy and tired, we bailed just as the day was starting to heat up.  A good session again in the pits!

A short vid..

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