Wednesday, 5 June 2013

Summit Quarry Bonanza

Summit Qyarry has had a bit of attention lately from keen local Nik Jennings.  He adding Responsible Parenting E7 6c* in March, with an outstanding on sight FA.  He has been busy since then adding a variety of tricky links into other routes.  I have been trying to get up there for a while  But I'm glad it has taken so long, as there are more things to do now.

The cloud had kept the sun off the crag for a good portion of the day I'm guessing, but was full bore when I got there late this afternoon.  Despite that, things felt ok.  I started off on sight soloing Jaggernath E4 6b*, which follows a crack ish line up a steepish bit of wall.  Gear would be super fiddly until the break near the top, so it makes for a sensible solo.  All the holds are quite big, with biggish moves off them, which makes for a nice route.  I then moved onto the easier of Nik's new links, Sam I Am E5 6c*.  This has a pretty nippy  bouldery start, which links into Jaggernath just below the break.  I blew the flash in the crux when I messed up my foot sequence.  Realising mid move and thought I could just pull harder, but that just meant greasing off and hit the pad pretty hard.  With my feet right it went next go, but was no push over.  The crux of this route is at bouldering height, so does not feel too out there.

After a quick chill I went for another established ish route, Pylon Direct (aka. Jim's Route) E6 6c*.  I again took a slip off a slightly greasy slopper low down.  So quickly brushed the route and dispatched it second go, gutted to blew the flash, but happy to do it without top roping it.  I then had a look at Responsible Parenting and got totally shut down.  My fingers are no where near strong enough for the series of hard steep mono pull required for this.  Full respect to Nik for this one.  The finish had no chalk on it, so I abseiled and had a look.  A quick chalking, brushing and practice of the moves, which are still pretty steely, and I was ready for another link up, Pylon Parenting E6 6c*.  Despite Nik suggesting this was a pointless filler, I thought it was awesome.  It takes in the majority of good climbing from one route and adds an excellent finish which is totally different in style.

I forgot my camera today, but will need to return to do the final filler in that I was too knackered to do today.

1 comment:

Nik Jennings said...

Nice work Adam :o)