Friday, 7 June 2013

Son of Sam F.A.

A change of plans this morning meant I had a few hours free.  Nik had messaged me this morning to say he had added a couple more things up at Summit, so I thought I would make the walk up and check them out.  Fast and light was the aim today after the mega huck with pads last time.  30m of rope and a small pad meant I was kitted out for quick headpoints, rather than flashes.  This worked quite well, as the routes move around a bit.

First up was the last of the original links I had not done, Line in the Sand E6 6c*.  This has some really tricky, sequencey climbing that take you from the start of Jaggernath, up and right to join Pylon Direct at the flake.  You then finish up that.  This was pretty hard to unlock, as my foot placement were key.  I would have lost a lot of time and energy going ground up on this one.  Next was one of Nik's newest links, The Last Link E7 6c*.  This simply extends Line in the Sand by reversing into the ramp of Pylon Direct and finishing up Responsible Parenting.  It is probably only of interest to locals, but a good sustained route none the less, that takes in some of the best climbing the face has to offer.

As Nik's message this morning suggested he was all finished up there, I turned my attention to a direct finish to Sam I Am.  It seemed like the logical line, as it climbs directly between Jaggernath and Pylon Direct, only pinching 1 hold from the latter at the top.  I had thought this would be totally desperate, and was just intending to have a play.  But was pretty psyched to link it all.  The crux for me was the second hard press move to the small crimp on Pylon Direct, but the pop/dyno to the break was just scary.  I did take a few falls  setting up for the crux press, but thankfully whilst I was in a straight up/down position. Falling whilst pressing could put you landing on your back.  Despite sore skin and sore knees, I gave it an all out do or die effort, and was rewarded with the send, Psyched!!!

The only 2 routes up there left require the mono start of RP, so will either never get done by me, or take a dedicated effort.  Hopefully a few of us will be getting back up there soon when it cools a little to get some videos.

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